Monday, September 28, 2009

Day 55 Salt Lake City, Utah

I left Martha and Bob's about noon their time today as I knew I would be losing an hour entering Mountain Time. I got to the KOA campground in SLC about 5:30 MT and have a nice campsite, far enough away from the interstate not to hear all that traffic noise, and only a short ways on the same street to get to the Mormon History Center and not much further to the U. of Utah. So I think I will stay here another night. That will give me all day tomorrow to visit both the university and the history center and I can start out fresh from here on Wednesday morning. Besides the campground has free Wi-fi. It took me a while to get connected to it but I finally got on.

Most interesting sight in the long drive today was the Salt Flats at the upper end of Great Salt Lake. They are so flat and so reflective in the sunlight that it was not hard at all to see mirages of water where there were none. But in a few places near the interstate there were shallow pools of water and the fence posts were rimed with salt where the water level once was higher.

Yesterday Martha and I drove up Lamoille Canyon as far as the road went and then hiked in a little further to a place where in the spring there is a waterfall. There was only a very small stream at this season of the year but the golden aspens and the reds of other foliage and the mountain cliffs so high above us made for a impressive sight. It was definitely one of the highlights of my trip. Then this morning we went to Elizabeth's house (she's the lady whose free credits I used at the casino) to thank her and stayed an hour to help her, her husband and another friend pick plums off their plum tree. It was just loaded with plums similar to Italian plums but about half the size. She sent me off with a jar of plum jam and one of choke cherry jelly that she had put up. I will be enjoying those this winter I know.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Day 54 Lamoille, Nevada

Arrived at Martha and Bob's about 4 on Friday afternoon. Have been watching Martha work. I tell her she looks like a farmer as she goes about the 4 hours it takes to water all of their plantings they have started around the house and yard. She breaks it up into 2 hours in the a.m. and 2 hours in the p.m. but hopes to get irrigation lines to take over the job this next year.

They spent all thhis past year getting their solar system in place, (lots of red tape and waiting for bureauocracy) and still waiting for the utility to come and change the meter before they are "hooked up" and can generate power. Pretty impressive array though, 5K in size.

Martha and I went to town yesterday, ran a bunch of errands, went to the Casino in Elko - what's a trip to Nevada without a visit to a casino? - and she let me use the free credits on a friend's card to play the penny slots and we came away winners. $12 for her and $10 for me. I had visited a casino in Coos Bay, Oregon, for their famous clam chowder but was totally mystified by the machines which have changed so much since the days you shoved your quarters in them.

The view here is great, about 150 degrees from their front yard. You can see for miles down in the valley. They have mule deer that visit daily. Later today we are going up Lamoille Canyon to see the aspens that are changing color rapidly now. Some of the other trees are starting to turn too. It's time to be heading home.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Day 51 Reno, Nevada

I loved Oregon. The coast was shrouded in mist and fog all morning yesterday so that was not so great, but the great waves coming in and breaking on the rocks were magnificent. My business in Coos Bay finished much sooner than I expected and so I turned east away from the coast and by 2 p.m. the sun was shining brightly and temperature climbed into the high 80s. Got a good campsite and today I drove across the mountains to Susanville and south to Reno. Finally, at long last, I am going EAST for a change. What a huge country we live in!

Forgot to tell you about an unusual sight a few days ago. As I was coming into Portland, on a downgrade, I saw police car lights ahead and expected they had pulled someone over. But as I drew abreast, I saw a car with its front end completely engulfed in fire. Flames were shooting out of the engine, both above and around the wheel wells, up to six feet high and included the dashboard area. They were so hot they had started a grass fire on the bank next to where it was parked. The police cruiser was parked a good 150 ft. behind it and there was no fire engine on the scene yet. By the time they got there the car would have been nothing but a burned out hulk and they would have a good grass fire on their hands. I had never seen anything like it except in the movies. To make it more spectacular, it was nearly dark, so it really stood out.

Today I saw some wildlife coming over the mountains. Coyote, a small deer, signs that said "elk", but I didn't see any of them. Highest elevation of the peaks I came over today was 5000 ft, at least two of those. These mountains look very different from the ones I've crossed before. They look like they are sculpted by wind with smooth ridges and short grass and then trees up high. When I was up high, there were terrific fir trees 100 ft. high along the road for miles. I was in Lassen National Forest (California).

So it's on to Lamoille to visit sister, Martha, and Bob tomorrow. I may be too late to go rafting in Colorado. We'll see.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Day 49 Albany, Oregon

Left Jon and Beth's yesterday morning for my next stop - only a half hour away Beth said. But my GPS led me into one of those traffic snarls that I get into in big cities, like Minneapolis and Vancouver. I just keep going in circles because of congestion and lots of traffic, a few one-way streets, and then throw in a detour and some road construction - you get the picture. At one point I nearly got in a queue for trucks to unload their container cargo. Had a fleeting image of my van being hoisted into the hold of some ship, but with quick thinking I backed into a bare spot before the next semi hemmed me in (I did get honked at this time). So after I have gone around and around a few times, I found a place to stop and tried to re-program the GPS around the trouble spot. It just didn't seem to have a clue. So I turned it off or ignored it and watched the traffic and took the first road that looked like it would be an exit. As I was going up the ramp I noticed I was going north when I meant to go south but I did not care as long as I got out of the maze. After a few miles I turned the GPS on again and we got re-routed and on our way. The upshot: it took me an hour to go 17 miles.

After my research was done in Tacoma, I headed for Forest Grove, west of Portland. I really did not want to drive in Portland in rush hour traffic but there seemed to be no good alternate route but to go to Portland and then west. I stopped in Longview, WA, for supper and it was dark by the time I got to Portland. I made the turn off the Portland loop and onto the west heading okay and then all I wanted was to stop driving. My intention had been to go to the Forest Reserve in Forest Grove, but I knew I would never find it in the dark, so I turned down a side road and just started looking for a place to park. I saw a sign for Verhoort and remembered seeing it on the map and turned in. Small little town. I parked across from the Catholic Church, well off the street. Flood lights in yards at either end of the block but no street lights shining on me. And lovely church bells to waken me - and the whole village - promptly at 7.

I was only 12 miles from Hillsboro Aviation, where I had a 9:30 appointment this morning with Amanda for a helicopter ride. I expected traffic to be bad at that hour but it wasn't and Hillsboro is well out on the west fringe of Portland, so I was early. Amanda is a helicopter instructor, with 900 hours flying time under her belt and looking for 1000 when she can then look for a job flying helicopters. She is a excellent instructor, talks all the while she is doing pre-flight checks, explains everything. We lifted off so easily it hardly seemed like any effort at all, went up about 600 feet and cleared the housing project so we could fly over farm land. She let me feel the controls a little, said all the quick turning, jerky helicopter movie stuff just was not possible. I can see why her students like her. Great gal! Great ride!

I'm about ready to make for the Oregon coast and spend a day or two traveling down the coast. Have some research in Coos Bay and will be heading for sister Martha's in Lemoille, NV by the weekend or before. My stop in California got cancelled which shortens my trip a couple hundred miles, which is probably a good thing.

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Day 46 Seattle, WA

Hi, Everyone. Sorry for the long lapse in communication.

I arrived at Jon and Beth's last Monday, kind of surprised myself that I actually had arrived here. My anxiety over driving again in Seattle traffic was assuaged entirely by the GPS, which performed beautifully.

On Tuesday, I spent the morning cleaning out the car (!), sunbathing on their patio and walking to the Post Office and Bank with Beth (good for your calves walking on all these hills).

Wednesday I drove a few miles east to Bellevue to an Archive there. This is one of those archives where you have to use white gloves to handle the old books. I managed to find one marriage record I wanted and to narrow down the years that a family lived in Tacoma by using the Polk Directories.

Thursday I drove to Vancouver, Canada, to use their public library where I had stopped briefly three years ago when Barry, Amy and I visited there. Since Beth warned that the wait at the Border could go more than an hour I called to make a reservation for overnight at a hostel not far from the library. The wait at the Border was only 35 minutes and all went well until I left the library about 6 to find the hostel. My GPS and I went around and around in a circle. Finally I saw a parking place and pulled in, got out and walked until I found the hostel, and checked in. (I was assigned a top bunk in the female dorm. The clerk kind of timidly asked if that was all right. I said just as long as there's a ladder. He grinned and assured me there was.)

Then the REAL problem arose. I could not find a place to park for the night. The hostel staff made several suggestions of places one could park for overnite for $6, but when I went there that option was no longer available, maximum time allowed was 3 hours. All street parking in the area was by Permit Only. The traffic, both car and foot, was so congested in the area of the hostel, that after driving around for an hour (by this time it was dark) I went back to the hostel to tell them and ask if I bought the 3-hours-max allowed, what were the chances the car would get towed. They said it likely would be. So at that point I gave up and set my GPS to get away from the downtown area, which was just brimming with people and traffic and music and lights and found a place to park in a residential area and slept in my car again.

I got back to Jon and Beth's about 5:45 Friday. I would have made it before the rush hour except there was an accident and that backed up the freeway for more than a half hour. Beth was having some friends who had gone on last year's Bhutan trip here for the weekend, so we all had a good time chatting, sipping wine and eating Beth's signature MacBeth recipe.

Today we roamed around Ballard, a neighborhood in Seattle, where we had breakfast and then visited REI, that terrific outdoor and sports outfitter. Goodness! They have absolutely anything and everything you can imagine for traveling or outdoor activities. I bought some poison ivy soap. I saw a neat little twisted cord clothesline for campers that does not require clothespins, lots of backpacks, laptop sleeves, hats, warm skiing duds, tents, on and on and on.

I'll be here through Sunday, then heading south. I am hoping to hook up with Amanda Schottelkorb and get a helicopter ride next week sometime.

Monday, September 14, 2009

Day 40 Yakima, WA

Almost all the little libraries I have visited in the last six weeks have had Wi-fi (even if I could not always get connected). So I called from Ellenburg last night to be sure the Yakima Library would be open this afternoon and it never occurred to me to ask if they had Wi-fi, since Yakima is a fair sized city - and they don't. They have computers, a few, and they have a waiting list of people to use them. The nearest Wi-fi is a block down the street at a little bakery they tell me, so I will see if I can find it.

I'm thinking I'll take in a movie this evening. I forgot to tell you that all the little towns in Iowa and some in South Dakota had movie houses, usually with one film showing on Friday and Saturday nights only. Here there is a slightly better selection. The Art Museum is also open to 5:30 so I'll give that a try, too.

I tried out The Stone Church this morning at 11. There was no UU church in town and the info on this church did not give clue one to what denomination, but I thought I'd go. The first 20 minutes were all music, with video screens giving you the words so you could clap and sing along. There was a good sized band, two guitars, a keyboard, drum set, coronet and four singers. The congregation, 250+, stood during all of this and raised their arms and generally expressed a feel-good sentiment. The theology was God-centered, upbeat, and expressing the need to do more in "this city". After the music stopped, though, it became definitely a Jesus-died-so-we-could-be-saved evangelistic message. I left about half-way through, too much evangelistic fervor for me.

It is hard to believe that I am within one day of Seattle, after all this time. Mostly I have just concentrated on the next place on my itinerary and the next task or visit and tried not to think too much about how much further I have to go. I have once or twice thought I've had about enough of this, but not more often. My usual goal-oriented self just says, okay, what's next? And I keep going. Like the Energizer Bunny.

This is actually being sent on Day 41, on my way back through Ellenburg from Yakima, where it was worth the bother of going there again. More on that later. Today I see Jon and Beth! Wow.

Friday, September 11, 2009

Day 38 Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

I'm sitting in a beautiful new Library in Coeur d'Alene. I had moved into Pacific Time late afternoon, and that gave me an extra hour to find a campsite last night. That was after I had tracked down the elusive Michael Douglass, whom I had tried to contact by letter and by mail through the Kootenai County Sheriff's department where he works. Anyway, back in the boonies, on a dirt road, a friendly neighbor finally led me in her car to his driveway yesterday. He was sleeping, not feeling too good, his wife said, but I verified I had found the right place and left my card and said I would be back in the morning. I asked what time would be good; she said he gets up at 4. I had intended to get there at 9 this morning but had forgotten to change my watch, so actually arrived on his doorstep at 10 to eight. But he was up and we both had our coffee in hand, and stood outside in the bright sunlight and visited for an hour. The rest of the family was still asleep.

Last Wednesday from Butte, I called Shirley Schottelkorb (Grandpa's first cousin)and told her I had some research in Butte but expected to get to her place that afternoon. She was delighted. Actually I found such good information in Butte, I did not get to Missoula until 4:45 but we had a great visit! She was so pleased to talk with me as she said I had so much Lee information that many family visitors do not have. They insisted that I sleep in their spare bedroom, so that was the second time this trip I have slept in a bed. In Cody I slept in the car as Darry had visitors. Other places that I have stopped the folks have not been in a position to offer me a bed. But the car is all set up with everything I need. When I take stuff into a house, there is always the danger of forgetting it. I was fortunate when I left Schottelkorbs that just as I got on the Interstate, I suddenly suspected I had left some things, so pulled off and verified that and went back, probably about 4 miles, to collect the backpack and pillow. Thank goodness I remembered before I had gone a hundred miles or so towards Coeur d'Alene. There would have been a lot of stuff to replace.

The scenery here is spectacular. There is a large blue lake and the main highways are above it so one gets a terrific view. Contrary to Missoula which gets little snow, Mike says they get lots here. I suspect this is considerably higher in altitude but have not checked that out. It was 38 degrees this morning at 6:15 PT and the sun not yet over the tree tops. So it was make a fast trip to the wash house (heated, thank goodness), pack up the car and go find some coffee!! Three hours later the temperature was 64 degrees and they say it is going to 80 today.

This morning I am going to the next county to do some research at Sandpoint. When finished there, next stop is Spokane. Then I'll be in Washington State! Should be getting to Seattle in a few days. Yeah!!

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Day 35 Butte, Montana

Hi. I'm in the Library at Butte. I have tried to get on the internet from two libraries before this and could not, so I am happy to be on again. Have not been able to get or send email either, as computers were not available, due to school being in session and students needing them.

After a very long hot drive in South Dakota, I arrived at Wall and took a motel because it said there was internet access but I could not get connected. I thought for a while that it was my adapter that was on the fritz but the next morning I tried again and the adapter was working fine. So I've just been chugging along. It's been a whole week, I think, since I wrote last and I can't possibly fill you in on the whole week so here are some snapshots:

South Dakota: left the corn and soybeans and entered cow country; rumbled across my first cattle guard; many towns are small and dusty and do not have libraries, as opposed to Iowa where every little town has one; (Pierre, on the other hand had a new and modern state archive building); hundreds of acres of hay bales, the 3x3x8 ones, not the huge ones of NYS; large trucks hauling 20-30 of those bales somewhere; DeSmet, Laura Ingalls Wilder town, touristy but nicely done; fields of cultivated sunflowers; Wall Drug Store is still there, more junky souvenirs than I remember along with its boots, hats and belts.

Wyoming: more rugged; the conifers that self seeded on the land gave it a park like appearance; not as many deep gulches as in SD; climbing in altitude after Buffalo into Sheridan; Widener's Double W Ranch setting with all those beautiful angus on green (irrigated) pasture a pretty picture; after Ranchester, the Big Horn Mountains loom up like a wall -it must have caused a few hearts to falter when faced by that scene 150 years ago. I could not avoid a sense of awe. Over the mountain to Cody was a hard drive; no wonder I remember a slightly panicky feeling when we did it in '71; add to that we did all those curves and switchbacks in the dark. But once over the mountain which was really a beautiful drive, the rest of the way into Cody was a breeze.

I knew that I could likely be faced with a dead Labor Day weekend. Libraries and offices would be closed. I'm glad I took time in Gillette to get the oil changed on the car because nothing I wanted to see was open when I arrived in Sheridan about 4:30. But they had a lovely city park with a series of water jets that came on every 20 minutes in a random pattern of on/off and height of spray which made a great place for the youngsters to play so I walked around and sat in the park and read for a while and watched. It really did not get cold that evening in spite of the altitude. I did not want to stay the whole weekend there, seemed like no big doings -they had their last rodeo the weekend before - Drat! - so next morning I kept pushing on. I called Darry in Cody and she was so happy I was coming. They were having a birthday cook-out for her the next day and all her family was there. I was elated.

So the weekend was not a bust. I had a good time with Darry and her family, stayed overnight there, and went on to Yellowstone park on Labor Day, yesterday. That was very hard driving going over the Divide in the park and my leg began to bother, so I stopped when I could to give it a rest. Came on a bull buffalo walking along the side of the road and pulled around him and parked. He came sauntering by my car window so close I could have reached out and touched him, but I didn't. Got a great picture though. Also saw several elk; did not see bear, but the driving required attention all the time, not much chance for looking around. Then after driving all day through the Park I got a campsite just before the West exit last night. It got COLD! When I woke this a.m. there was frost on my windshield and it was 32 degrees out, and that was after the sun was up. It never did warm up above 70 today. I visited Bonnie Schilling (descendant of Frank Lee of Ellisburg) in Whitehall this afternoon and that brings me up to date. Tomorrow I am here in Butte; the next day I hope to see Shirley Schottelkorb. Hoping for better connections from here on out.

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Day 29 Onawa, Iowa

Woke up this morning feeling great! I love sleeping in the van at a campsite and being able to look up through my back window at the stars. Last night was not as cold as it had been the past two nights, 10 degrees warmer when I woke this morning and I slept all night without waking. For the first time I had a camp wash house with enough light so I could actually put on my make-up there after I washed up.

Then quirky things began to happen. I spilled some of my coffee in the car and had to mop that up. (Amazing that I have not had more spills along the way.) I went in to McDonald's to use the restroom and was sitting there when I heard a father and son talking. He was frustrated with his son.."you went a whole hour before you had to pee"... etc. and he kept asking the boy if he was done yet. I could not believe I could hear them so clearly but there was a vent right over my head. And then the boy finished and went to the sink to wash up and I realized they were right outside my door!! I kept my head down til they left. I was almost afraid to leave in case I had walked into the wrong restroom!! But I squared my shoulders and sallied forth, very happy to see that the door across the hall said MEN.

Spent the morning in the Courthouse, most of it standing up, and my tummy began to feel uneasy. By the time I left, I realized I could not keep going at my usual pace and would just have to take time to rest. So I laid down in the car for an hour and read. After that I felt some better and decided to spend the afternoon in the library where I could have peace and quiet and use internet access. It turned out to be a good decision. Got information here that I did not get at the courthouse. My stomach is still kind of unsettled and I am beginning to feel hungry because I did not eat any lunch. This is the first time on my trip that I have not felt well. Considering all the different water I've drunk and the places I've eaten, that is pretty good. I am sure I will be all better in the morning. Meanwhile, I will stay here instead of going back to Sioux City as I had planned. I need all my wits about me to drive in a strange city.

Got my car washed and found out where there is a laundromat. And I'm hoping for a nice restaurant tonight.